Swimming in a volcano, heat and simmering conflict

On the road to Adıyaman, the fatigue is getting worse and worse. Lous and Julen, who have been cycling Turkey since early July, are tackling the Taurus Mountains. Energy reserves are melting fast under the scorching sun and every hill becomes a challenge.

The two cyclists discovered that on asphalt heated to 59 degrees, icy water reaches body temperature in 17 minutes. After 32 minutes, you could have tea. Even the peaks seem to melt in this furnace. Their gentle slopes line up one behind the other, giving a misleading impression of their true altitude.

Escalader

The thirst for experience remains greater than the desire for refreshment. Lous and Julen set off at four in the morning to reach Mount Nemrut, which rises to 2150 metres and whose summit is part shrine, part burial ground and now also part national park.

Beyond the heat or the altitude, one obstacle still stands in their way: it's not the gods, but the park wardens who ask for a small offering, namely a few Turkish lira to pay for the entrance. Our two tourists didn't have any cash on them, but the problem was quickly solved by modern means via smartphone. So they can go and admire the thousand-year-old stone statues of Zeus, Apollo or Antiochos.

Refueling

After reaching the summit, it's time to come back down. It feels good, too. The petrol stations along the way have no historical value, but are a kind of modern oasis. Here, in the middle of nowhere, you can find everything you need: cold drinks, food and gas for the camping stove. "It's perfect for spending the night," explains Julen. "They're open 24 hours a day and they're safe places."

The two accomplices discover this possibility in Siverek. They are welcomed, given chairs and a dog joins them. Lous and Julen can recharge their batteries. It's a simple life, and a good one. Even if not everything is easy in this region. There are invisible borders. They really feel it for the first time when they arrive in Diyarbakır.

Be careful

"After Diyarbakır, we saw a lot of police checks, the army and police are stationed there," comments Lous. "Here, people don't identify with Turkey. We've learnt a few Kurdish words, which they really like. "The population says: Kurdistan. The state says: Turkey. "As a Basque, I can understand the situation a little," says Julen. The conflict in the region is simmering like never before, and hardly anyone but the Western public has forgotten about it. "Nevertheless, it's very peaceful here and we feel safe," say our two globetrotters.

Gonfler

Invisible borders are not just a matter of geopolitics, they also concern bodies and material. When the spring is broken, we often only realise it when faced with a fait accompli. We've had so many flat tyres," says Lous. The first repair came on the fourth day of their trip. Tyres deflating endlessly, bikes overturned in the morning, screws piercing inner tubes - the lot! But that's not everyone's lot. "We met an Austrian who hadn't yet had a breakdown after having cycled 5,000 kilometres. We were very envious of him!"

Breathing

Who wants to travel far spares his mount. Breaks are therefore very important for decompressing, breathing and replenishing energy. Taking a dip in cool, clear water is particularly tempting in this heat. Under the Malabadi bridge flows the Batman river. The youngsters enthusiastically show off their aquatic superpowers to strangers and strike a pose before the inevitable friendship selfie with the people crowded on the riverbank.

Lous and Julen are tirelessly asked if they feel safe and what they think of Turkey. "People worry about the impression foreigners have of Turkey," says Lous. For our travellers, the experiences have been positive. Only the dogs are hostile. The next night, they lay siege to the tent, barking aggressively, while Lous and Julen remain motionless inside.

Excitement

When asked about the highlights of their trip, Lous and Julen can only laugh. There were nothing but highlights. But one discovery made a particular impression on Julen: Nemrut. It's not the mountain mentioned above, but the other Nemrut on the shores of Lake Van. "It's a volcano with two lakes in the crater," explains Julen. It was a very strenuous experience. The climb was very steep and windy," says Julen, "and although they weren't both in great shape, they gritted their teeth and risked going off course in the wind. "We hadn't been feeling well for a week already, suffering from water poisoning, but we had to go," explains Lous. "The crater has its own ecosystem."

Fevzi, who runs a small shop at the end of the road and feeds the local bears, is also an unusual character. "You look tired, very very tired!" he says as he greets Julen before cheerfully tossing Lous, "And you are big monkey!"

It's a strange and strangely beautiful encounter with this amazing man who sets up bear protection around the travellers' tent. They invite Fevzi to share their dinner before he takes them to bathe in the crater's hot spring on this full moon night.

"I've never had to follow so many instructions to go swimming," jokes Lous. Left foot, right foot. Fevzi tells them where to put their feet to move forward and looks after his visitors until Lous and Julen go to bed after drinking tea around the fire. "Experiences like this are unforgettable, this man was so interesting and engaging," exclaims Lous. A bath in a volcano, a memory for life.

Lous and Julen continue their journey. Find out more about their adventures in the next episode.