A journey to the heart of Turkey

"I hope he doesn't ask us what our favourite moment has been so far," Julen says to Lous. I don't suspect anything yet. Two days later, not even 20 minutes into our conversation, I ask the taboo question. "What has been your favourite moment so far?" I need to be guided through all these adventures, you understand...

Lous and Julien have already been cycling around Turkey for two months. They set off from Istanbul and are heading east. They've discovered underground cities and climbed mountains, they've got to the heart of this country and have been won over by its people, who are as open as the borders are closed at the moment.

Originally, Lous and Julen wanted to travel along the ancient Silk Road. Unfortunately, they are unable to continue eastwards. As we chat on Facetime, they find themselves in Trabzon, on the shores of the Black Sea. They laugh when I ask them what the highlight of their trip has been so far. Silly question.

Let's start at the beginning.

Just as they set off, the derailleur on one of their bikes broke, earning them a diversion to a repair shop. No big deal. "We were immediately overwhelmed by the kindness of the Turkish people," Julen tells me. A man called Kaan helped them by saying, via Google Translate, "I will drive you to the bike shop", before loading all their belongings into his pick-up. A mechanic repaired Lous' bike and refused payment. We didn't know much about Turkey," says Julen, "but the Turkish people are wonderful. The drivers are very patient; they keep a good distance when they overtake us," adds Lous.

Once Istanbul and the initial hiccups behind them, the adventure really begins. Lous and Julen swallow up the miles and begin to discover this country with all their senses. "We've had so many adventures that it's hard to sum them all up for you," Lous tells me. A summary wouldn't do justice to their experience anyway. Here are a few images and anecdotes from this eclectic trip.

Inland, on the road to selfies

The further inland our two travellers go, the more attention they attract from those they meet. "When we arrive somewhere and sit down in a café, it usually fills up within five minutes," says Julen. "News of the two strangers' presence spreads like wildfire. "When we walk into a shop, the people there already know all about us," says Lous with a laugh.

Lous and Julen were delighted by the kindness of the locals. Gifts of fruit and vegetables, invitations to dinner, to sleep over and always a glass of çay - the Turks have an incredible sense of hospitality. Our adventurers can't accept every invitation, otherwise they'd never go ahead. Instead of travelling the ancient Silk Road, they find themselves on the selfie trail. Even though they sometimes struggle to make themselves understood, everyone (or almost everyone) wants a souvenir photo.

I started to think about our sense of hospitality, in Europe. Here, people from tiny villages, who have almost nothing, offer us food without hesitation. It's a much bigger gesture for them than it is for us. I ask myself why I don't do it in Zurich. I know our culture is different, but I want to be more open and hospitable in the future.

The journey, quite simply

Feeling welcome and safe makes life easier. "Our main concerns are finding water, food and a place to sleep," says Lous. "I really appreciate this simplicity," he says, "It offers infinite possibilities. Some moments are difficult, others absolutely wonderful.

Like this night spent in a castle, with police escort, in Döğer. Its 3,000 inhabitants are under quarantine, as 100 people have been infected with the coronavirus, and the police are kind enough to escort our two cyclists.

The further the country roads take them into isolated areas, the less they feel the effects of the pandemic. Lous and Julen are alone on the roads. They discover the ruins of the castle of Avdalaz.

They never tire of admiring this magnificent place: "We were like children when we went up to the castle and discovered its various rooms."Once the wind and night had died down, our two adventurers fell asleep, happy, under a starry sky.

Salt and sunshine

One of many magical moments. As the days passed, Lous and Julen collected memories and beautiful encounters. On 11 July, a farmer offers them a snack and drinks on the side of the road. After a short ride on his tractor, they find a place to lie high in the straw, and admire a spectacular sunset before falling asleep.

The next day, they cycle across a lake. At least, that's what their maps say. The Tuz lake is surrounded by a layer of crystalline salt in summer, and has shrunk enormously in recent years. Agriculture and climate change are drying it out. The Turks are trying to pump water in to balance its level.

The "snow" is not refreshing. Of course, the trip isn't just one long series of Instagrammable moments; our two companions have also experienced a few adventures. What could be more natural?

Cycling through Turkey in the middle of summer with backpacks and equipment requires a certain amount of stamina. The sun is merciless, and the thermometer on the bike's computer can climb to 60 degrees. Lous and Julen often pedal into the wind, which keeps them cool while also requiring them to redouble their efforts.

They don't plan far in advance. "We sometimes set ourselves a goal to achieve at the end of the day, before realising we have no chance of achieving it."

That's just the way it is. Julen finds that this resilience is also a luxury: "This journey is not a race. We have no finish line."

So their plans aren't set in stone. They adapt them as they go along, depending on the wind, the weather, and what they find on their route. Like the fairy paths of Cappadocia.

A thousand and one stories

You don't have to be a cyclist to enjoy this UNESCO World Heritage site, or the underground city of Derinkuyu. Lous and Julen discover the stories of these places with wonder. They create their own stories, some beautiful and some not so beautiful.

Some days, the heat is unbearable, legs weak, supplies dwindling, with no shop in sight. Other days, the road seems to climb forever, while exhaustion stalks our two cyclists and a storm looms on the horizon.

"Sometimes nothing goes right. And all of a sudden, something incredible happens."

Most of the time, it's the local people who are behind these miracles. Comme à Çadıryeri, where half the village looked after the two exhausted travellers.

Invited to friends' homes

The first family gives them dry shelter, coffee and biscuits. A second offers them a nice hot shower. A third serves them çay. Thus taken care of, if they can't move mountains, they can at least climb the ones in front of them.

The first pass takes all their strength. They set off again early the next morning. A few minutes later, they are already drenched in sweat and dragging their bikes at a snail's pace up the steep slope.

Before them stretches a lunar landscape made up of peaks between 2,500 and 3,000 metres in altitude. This view is as beautiful as the route is difficult.

The two travellers soon tire of the dusty slopes and stifling heat. In Switzerland, they prefer the fresh mountain air. Fortunately, plans are there to be changed.

Lous and Julen decide to lengthen the route, but to move forward into a less mountainous landscape. There's more than enough to discover. "Turkey is very varied. We don't feel like we've spent all our time in the same country," Lous tells me.

Only the hospitality of the Turks is constant. Lous and Julen have found the heart of Turkey.

Lous and Julen continue their journey. Find out more about their adventures in the next part of my article.