Cycling adventure: "Everything is possible except crossing the border".

Like so many other projects, those of Lous and Julen are also hanging on a (silk) thread and can change overnight. The duo already wanted to set sail in April, but everything had changed. The world seemed to have shrunk, and a feeling of oppression set in as the borders closed. Their dream of following the ancient Silk Road by bike became an impossible adventure.

But the call of the journey is too strong. Lous de Haart, 33, and Julen Ruiz Aizpuru, 34, are globetrotters used to change. She's Dutch, he's Basque. They're both optimists, and that's just what's needed to embark on such a journey into the unknown. There's no doubt in their minds: as soon as it's possible, they'll be taking a trip away from Zurich.

I heard about their project by chance. Lous is a physiotherapist and I visited him a few months ago for an article. The story of his next adventure is even more interesting than his feedback about the Challenge Disc. At a time when half the people on the planet are confined to their homes, she and Julen dream of far-off lands. As they like to share their discoveries, I'll be contacting them regularly over the coming months to report back. But before that can happen, we have to leave. In June, Lous wrote to us: "This is it!!!" Each exclamation mark sounds like a shout of joy. They will be flying to Istanbul via the Netherlands. And then what?

Planning to plan nothing

On the eve of their departure, we meet up at the Café du Bonheur in Zurich and discuss the advantages of setting off without a predefined roadmap. "It's even more of an adventure," says Lous. We really don't know where we'll be in a month's time. "Julen adds, "Anything is possible except crossing the borders. "It's a minor but decisive detail that blocks progress across the vastness of Central Asia.

"Georgia should soon be accessible again, but that will be all for now," Lous has no illusions. "The borders of Armenia, Iran and Turkmenistan are closed."

Two years ago, she travelled to Tajikistan with a friend. She was seduced by the authentic character of this country: "Over there, nature is king."

Both Lous and Julen are keen to retrace the ancient Silk Road. "I was very envious when I saw his photos of Tajikistan," says Julen. The idea came to them to cycle through these countries, which are relatively untouched by tourism. Both are experienced cyclists, but this ambitious route requires more equipment than their previous trips. While some things have changed, their attitude remains the same: Lous and Julen agree that travel should leave enough room for chance.

So they take things philosophically. So much so that the tour they had envisaged remains a dream for the time being: "Everything has changed, but I'm not disappointed," says Julen. "He has quit his job as a programmer and will be spending his time travelling until December. Whatever discoveries lie ahead, he's looking forward to them: "Cycling is a way of life for me. So is travelling. It's always nice to be able to combine the two."

Two bikes, four trained legs and eight well-filled panniers: the adventure can begin. Heading east, as far as possible. There, it will be possible to take a step back. "The more you read about the news in the age of the coronavirus, the more depressing it is," says Julen. It's good to go off on your own, enjoy nature and only keep in touch with the rest of the world in small doses. "I don't want to have to check the Internet every day to see if a border has reopened," explains Lous. The day's itinerary won't even be entered into the GPS: "We'll just follow the map."

As long as the inner compass is working, all will be well. She is, of course, focused on the encounters inherent in travelling, especially in regions where the locals are particularly open and welcoming. Most people say that in Iran and Turkey it's impossible to cook your own meals, because you're invited everywhere," says Julen. Respecting the necessary distances must not be at the expense of the human aspect. "We'll be creative and ask people if we can camp in their homes," says Lous. You need to have a certain fundamental confidence in yourself and in others to tackle a trip like this. No one can be prepared for everything.

Heat, snow and stone castle

As well as food, water and layers of clothing for extreme temperatures, travellers above all take spare parts with them. Brake discs, chains, repair kit: everything they need to stay mobile. "I once met a cyclist in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, who had to wait three weeks to get spare parts from Russia", says Lous. They try to minimise the risk of not being able to continue their journey.

They want to do a lot of off-roading and have been training, panniers full, on category S1 and S2 trails. Breakdowns, falls and dog bites could thwart their plans. Whatever happens, Lous and Julen will make the best of it and make the journey worthwhile. "If the border with Georgia stays closed, we'll turn back and explore southern Turkey," says Lous. "There are so many beautiful places on earth," she adds, before she and her partner disappear into the summer rain in Zurich. A few days later, I receive the first photo via WhatsApp: a stone castle that surely has more than five stars at night.

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