The grill that can do it all: we put the Multigrill 9 Pro by Braun to the test

Oof, a multipurpose appliance! I’m sceptical. In other words «Jack of all trades, master of none». Most of the time, none of the promised features are really good and you end up buying a single device for the feature you need the most anyway.

In this case, Braun wants to combine a contact grill, waffle iron and griddle in one device. Can Braun’s Multigrill 9 Pro shake my prejudice against how-ever-many-in-1 appliances?

Tabletop BBQs

Braun Multigrill 9 Pro

74

Tabletop BBQs

Braun Multigrill 9 Pro

74

Not as I unbox the grill anyway. Just as I anticipated, the delivery was huge. In addition to the main appliance the following are also included in the box:

• two ribbed plates
• two flat plates
• a pair of waffle plates (only in this version)
• a grease drip tray
• a temperature probe
• a measuring spoon for waffle batter
• an instruction manual as thick as a decent steak

Jokes aside the the instruction manual is in 18 languages. In German, I just need to read 20 pages, including grill temperature charts and recipes. Everything is easy to understand and explained in a comprehensible way.

Before turning it on, I take a look at the tech and measurements of the Multigrill 9 Pro:

• 45 cm long, 35 cm wide and 18 cm high
• weighs 7.3 kg
• 2200 watts
• 37cm x 23cm grill plates (×2)
• max. temperature of 265 degrees Celsius (only for a short time with the Sear function); otherwise 240 degrees max. temperature

The power cable is quite short at about 80 cm, so without an extension cord you are restricted in where you put the grill.

Functions

To prepare the Multigrill 9 Pro for the desired use you click the appropriate grill plates onto the device. By doing so, the plug on the underside of the grill plate is connected to the device. A heating coil heats the plate during operation.

Two knobs on the unit let you control the heat on the lower and upper plates separately. The levels are in increments of 10 degrees Celsius. The target temperature is shown on a display on the appliance and when it reaches it, the Multigrill will beep.

How hard the lid closes is determined by a small plastic part with ridges in the lid. At the lowest level, the lid lowers completely onto the lower plate. If you lock it further up, it leaves enough room for a burger without flattening it. At the highest level, the Multigrill works like an oven with bottom and top heat.

Speaking of plastic, there’s a lot of it in the Multigrill 9 Pro. At first glance, you think there’s more metal than there actually is. At least the plastic pieces look solid. In all the important places Braun hasn’t tried to make any cuts. The handle on the oven is sturdy and ergonomic. The temperature controls are rough on the sides, so you won’t slip off them, even with greasy fingers.

The grill plates are made of aluminium die-cast and have a non-stick coating. So be careful with sharp knives, pointed forks or tongs made of metal! As with a delicate pan, plastic cooking utensils are recommended.

Test 1: Grill

For my first test, the barbecue tongs with pinchers made of nylon at the ready. For the family dinner, I put peppers, asparagus and courgette on the grill, as well as some sausages. The grill is open and sits on the work surface in the kitchen. The grease drip tray is placed centrally between the two plates. A flat grill plate and one with grooves provide just enough space for grilling food for three people.

The separately adjustable plates prove to be a real advantage. On the ribbed plate, the courgette slices get a grilling pattern, then afterwards they can be moved to the flat plate and the other way round for the sausages. As with «real» grilling, the food also sizzles and sprays on the Multigrill. Splashes of grease and oil are soon all over and around the appliance.

Fortunately, after dinner, the cleaning is quick. Once the plates are cool, I click them out of the holders. You can wash them by hand or put them in the dishwasher. I wipe up the remaining traces on the grill with a cloth and some grease cleaner.

Test 2: Paninis

Okay, so we can expect an appliance with the name «Multigrill» to grill well. But can Braun’s appliance prove itself as a panini maker? The popular Italian sandwiches are filled, then heated from above and below, usually in a contact grill, to make the crust warm and crispy. Inside, mozzarella, salami, ham, rocket as well as pesto melt into a delight.

Before I test the panini function of the Multigrill with the editorial team, I visit Giorgia and Giulia in Zurich Seefeld. The two sisters run Toso, my favourite panini store there. From them I get empty paninis, which they in turn get from a baker. They even share a few preparation tips with me. They heat their lower plate to 200 degrees, and the ribbed upper plate to 250 degrees.

The Multigrill 9 Pro suggests much lower temperatures in the automatic panini setting: 100 degrees at the bottom, 120 degrees at the top, then the whole thing for five minutes. I completely ignore the suggestion when testing. Instead I followed the advice from the Toso experts. Rightly so, because ten paninis later, all testers agree: shorter and hotter is better. The weight of the upper half of the appliance is enough to flatten the Italian breads just right. Depending on the filling quantity, the temperature can also be turned down a little. Then the bread becomes crispy more slowly, but the topping melts more. But no-one reduced it to 120 degrees or lower. So you can forget about the automatic setting and rather experiment with temperature and duration yourself.

Test 3: Waffles

While I was still using expert knowledge for the panini, I rely solely on the instruction manual for test number three. For «classic waffles» I mix flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and a little bit of salt into the egg, sunflower oil and milk mixture. My Braun waffle batter is ready. I put the two waffle plates in the Multigrill, the one with the thicker indentations on the bottom, the other inside the top of the lid. According to the instructions, I grease the plates to prevent sticking.

After switching it on, the Multigrill «knows» that its task is to bake waffles. Now I just need to determine the desired degree of browning – from light to dark, there are three levels. When the plates are hot, the Multigrill beeps. Thanks to the measuring cup provided, I can measure the amount of batter for two of the four waffle moulds and pour it into the mould. This helps the first time round. On the second round, I just pour the batter directly from the mixing bowl into the mould.

I then close the lid and wait. How long? No idea. The display doesn’t show the time. In the instructions, it says around 15 minutes. Surely it doesn’t take quite that long. The result is definitely visually convincing: the waffles are nicely brown, crispy on the outside and easy to remove from the mould. During tasting, some testers complained about a slightly rubbery consistency. That may be due to my mixing or the recipe. Anyway, if you buy a Multigrill 9 Pro and bake waffles with it regularly, you’ll definitely find the right recipe for you and your taste. You can’t go wrong with the Multigrill because it’s clear this all-rounder can also make waffles.

Conclusion

The name says it all: the Multigrill 9 Pro is first and foremost a grill. On the two grill plates you can prepare vegetables and meat easily and quickly. The temperature controls respond well and prevent you from burning anything. For meat fans, there are two nice extras: a temperature probe you can stick into the meat that measures the core temperature, and the Sear function on the top and bottom at the same time.

The Multigrill 9 Pro also makes waffles, does a decent job of pancakes and keeps food warm when needed. It’s an appliance for all situations: frying pan, waffle iron, crepe plate and oven in one. In purely mathematical terms, the all-rounder is therefore cheaper in total than purchasing all the specialist appliances.

One question remains: do you really forgo the individual appliances just because you have a multi-function contact grill-warming-waffle-iron-crêpe-plate thing at home? There are objectively good reasons to answer yes to this question. You save space, the device is easy to clean and compact enough to be easily stored. My subjective decision is still against the Multigrill 9 Pro – especially because I already have a very good alternative for every application of the device.